A building marked by fire and death shows the decay of South Africa’s ‘city of gold’

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A structure marred by the ravages of fire and the specter of death serves as a poignant symbol of the deterioration witnessed within South Africa’s renowned “city of gold.” Amidst the ruins of a dilapidated apartment block in Johannesburg, a solitary circular plaque perseveres on the weathered brown brick facade. Its five succinct sentences weave together a narrative that traces the edifice’s history through time.

Situated at No. 80 Albert Street, this locale bore witness to one of the most distressing urban calamities in South Africa’s annals, a tragedy claiming a grim toll of 76 lives. Throughout an era marred by apartheid’s divisive racial policies, the site functioned as a central pass office—a checkpoint dedicated to enforcing the notorious legislation that meticulously governed the movements of Black individuals across the nation.

Emblazoned on the plaque, a proclamation of the building’s past reveals the gravity of its role during apartheid. It elucidates the stark reality that those without official permits, issued by the apartheid regime, were denied the privilege of setting foot in Johannesburg, effectively relegating them to societal exclusion.

Absent from this inscription is the fact that this building continued to perpetuate exclusionary practices, even decades after the demise of apartheid. The tragedy unfurled on a recent Thursday, when flames tore through the edifice, leaving a trail of destruction and snuffing out the lives of numerous South Africans and destitute migrants on the fringes of society. This catastrophe unfolded in a city that prides itself as Africa’s wealthiest.

Approximately 200 families found themselves ensnared in desperation, seeking a semblance of habitation within the desolation. They stumbled upon a five-story structure abandoned by authorities, which had succumbed to dereliction. These individuals paid rents to unofficial “landlords” who had unlawfully seized control of the premises, marking it as what Johannesburg terms a “hijacked building.” The city’s landscape is riddled with hundreds of such buildings, echoing the broader decay besetting South Africa’s vital urban center.

These structures stand as harbingers of Johannesburg’s decline, and by extension, the broader failure of a post-apartheid government to extend dignified lives to the marginalized Black majority. The aftermath of the devastating nocturnal blaze elicited indignation, stemming from the revelation that the building in question was owned by the city itself. However, accountability for both the structure and its inhabitants, who inhabited makeshift dwellings even within parking garages, remained conspicuously absent.

Amidst this bleak backdrop, Angela Rivers, the general manager of the Johannesburg Property Owners and Managers Association, voiced her disheartenment. She remarked on the inevitability of such tragedies recurring until the city grapples with the severity of the issue. Rivers highlighted that various government departments acknowledged the deplorable state of hijacked buildings throughout the city center, yet displayed a conspicuous lack of seriousness in addressing the problem.

In response to the calamity, South African President Cyril Ramaphosa visited the scene, immersing himself among the city’s downtrodden inhabitants in an attempt to provide reassurance. The President affirmed the government’s commitment to caring for its people, acknowledging that although there may be shortcomings, prioritizing the welfare of South Africans remained a paramount concern.

However, skepticism shrouds these promises emanating from the ruling African National Congress (ANC) party, which has governed South Africa since the inaugural democratic elections of 1994, effectively leading the nation out of the dark shadows of apartheid. Johannesburg stands as a microcosm of these perceived failures, its infrastructure beset by multifaceted challenges, from ruptured water pipelines to crumbling roads, sporadic electricity supply, and the accumulation of refuse on street corners.

A city founded upon the riches of a vast gold reef just over a century ago, Johannesburg beckoned Black South Africans seeking economic opportunities. It bore witness to rapid urbanization following apartheid’s demise and the dismantling of its oppressive pass laws. The city’s population burgeoned from 1.8 million in 1990 to an estimated 6 million presently, reflecting the continued allure of the “city of gold.”

Nevertheless, what newcomers now encounter is an unemployment rate of 36% within the encompassing Gauteng province—an alarming figure even exceeding the national average of 33%, which holds the unenviable title of the world’s highest. The province hosts approximately 1.2 million individuals lacking proper housing, with the crisis predominantly unfolding within Johannesburg’s confines.

The late 1990s marked a turning point for Johannesburg as prominent enterprises decamped from downtown precincts to the burgeoning financial district of Sandton, situated about 10 miles to the north. Although the city still boasts more millionaires than any other African urban center, the stark contrast between the gleaming towers of Sandton and the dilapidated core of Johannesburg underscores the nation’s profound inequality.

As capital resources drained away, central Johannesburg gradually slid into decay, reaching a pivotal juncture. Volker von Widdern, a risk analyst specializing in business, likened this process to a cascading sequence of dominos. The cumulative impact gradually culminates in a catastrophic upheaval, with ramifications that extend beyond immediate appearances.

Johannesburg’s electorate has recently shifted allegiance from the ruling ANC. However, this shift has done little to improve the city’s prospects, giving rise to a succession of ineffective political coalitions. The city has seen a rapid turnover of mayors within a span of two years.

Beyond the infrastructural conundrum, the faltering foundations of social cohesion loom as a more formidable threat to the nation’s fabric. Professor Yunus Ballim of the University of the Witwatersrand, an expert in civil engineering, highlighted that each failure to deliver essential amenities erodes the faith of South Africans in their post-apartheid democracy. While citizens have been granted freedoms and the eradication of pass laws, the promised provision of housing and employment for millions remains unfulfilled.

Ballim posed a probing question, pondering why disenchanted and impoverished protesters sometimes resort to burning clinics or schools. He postulated that these actions might stem from a loss of confidence in these institutions to fulfill their intended purposes, signaling a broader disillusionment with the democratic promise.

Within this context, Angela Rivers recounted a heart-wrenching account of a pregnant woman laboring alone in the dank basement of a hijacked property, bereft of electricity or running water. Fearing eviction and with a pervasive sense of uncertainty, the woman shunned hospitalization, symbolizing a somber birth in darkness.

In conclusion, Johannesburg’s trajectory serves as a stark reminder of the fragility of urban development, the unequal distribution of resources, and the societal fault lines exacerbated by post-apartheid challenges. As the city grapples with decay and inequality, the imperative to rectify these issues becomes a shared responsibility—one that extends beyond governance to encompass a collective endeavor toward a more just and equitable future.

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More about Urban Decay

• Apartheid in South Africa
• Johannesburg’s Urban Challenges
• Hijacked Buildings in Johannesburg
• Unemployment in Gauteng Province
• Political Changes in Johannesburg
• Challenges to South Africa’s Democracy