Kim Jones Marks 5-Year Anniversary with Dior in Gender-Fluid Men’s Show in Paris

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Under the watchful gaze of the Eiffel Tower, Dior’s men’s show unfolded in the historical courtyards of the Ecole Militaire on Friday. The event was underscored by a Parisian heatwave that had guests, including Game of Thrones star Gwendoline Christie, using their metallic invitations as fans. The show’s transformative theme was hinted at by a futuristic runway featuring square plate motifs.

The spectacle initiated with a theatrical touch, male models emerged from receding square tops on the runway, a spectacle that had even the usually reserved Bernard Arnault, CEO of Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy, reaching for his phone to record the event.

The show was a landmark for British designer Kim Jones, marking his fifth year steering Dior menswear. The bold collection showcased a fusion of Dior’s traditional feminine elements with contemporary men’s fashion, encapsulating the gender-fluid spirit of Generation Z.

Noteworthy pieces from Friday’s spring-summer collections include:

EMBRACING DIOR’S SOFTER AESTHETICS

“Dior is a haute couture house,” Jones declared. “It’s a culture we’ve inherited from past womenswear and integrated into present menswear.” The show featured styles promoting a softer masculine image. Male models sported Dior handbags, wore leopard print skirt-shorts unapologetically, and displayed pink pastel tweed shorts for a new take on masculinity.

The collection demonstrated a careful blend of the masculine and feminine, merging haute couture fabrics and British menswear tailoring traditions, referencing Dior’s womenswear history. Standout features included neon accents on loafers and tennis shirts, geometric Balkan motifs, and an assortment of bags in various shapes, colors, and textures.

Jones paid tribute to his predecessors with a mix of pop iconography and traditional influences, transforming the house’s famed flower women designs into “flower men” or “hommes fleurs.”

Renowned milliner Stephen Jones contributed to the collection with new wave beanies adorned with “ronghua,” delicate velvet flowers of Chinese origin dating back to the Tang dynasty.

Jones’s men’s show made a bold statement, emphasizing the fluidity and interconnectedness of gender in fashion. His fifth-anniversary collection addressed society’s evolving perceptions of manhood, pushing boundaries while reflecting them. For Jones, fashion is an ongoing dialogue, linking the past, present, and future. His collections strive to shift the discourse toward a broader view of gender roles.

JUNYA WATANABE’S PUNK: A DARING BLEND

Renowned designer Junya Watanabe showcased a new collection, powerfully paying homage to the subversive ethos of punk culture in the center of Paris’ high fashion scene. Watanabe’s designs often draw from “Monozukuri,” a Japanese philosophy of creativity and innovation.

His punk-inspired aesthetics dominated Friday’s runway, celebrating the deconstruction and reconstruction of fashion. Meticulously disassembled garments were rearranged, creating a daring patchwork that challenged conventions.

Highlights from the collection included restitched suit panels refashioned into armor-like pieces, symbolizing Watanabe’s punk-inspired vision. These striking creations bridged streetwear rebellion with corporate aesthetics, showcasing Watanabe’s disruptive ethos.

FAME AND ’90s RETRO MEET AT AMI

Paris Fashion Week witnessed a blaze of nostalgia and celebrity glamor with Alexandre Mattiussi of AMI, presenting a simplified, co-ed collection that combined refined tailoring with sequined accents.

Mattiussi evoked the relaxed sophistication of the ’90s through tailoring in warm gray, chic dusty green, and smudged beige, offset with contemporary sequined button-downs and slip skirts.

The show was star-studded, with Manu Rios and Halle Bailey attending, underscoring the intimate relationship between fashion and celebrity culture. The event reiterated that Paris Fashion Week is as much about who wears the fashion as it is about the fashion itself.

NIGO’S KENZO COLLECTION SHINES ON SEINE BRIDGE

On a bridge overlooking the Seine, the Kenzo show unfolded under the golden hour sun. Designer Nigo continued his youthful revitalization of the brand, infusing the collection with his signature style while respecting Kenzo’s print-heavy legacy.

The collection had flashes of Nigo’s past preppy styles, but was primarily composed of audacious prints in bold reds and blues. The unisex line featured an intriguing balance of urban grit and playful touches, like oversized berets and gardening hats.

Despite its sales potential, the collection remained slightly elusive, reflecting Nigo’s ongoing effort to balance his distinctive vision with Kenzo’s established reputation. His latest collection hinted at a more confident stride, adding a thrilling chapter to Kenzo’s fashion narrative.

The show ended with VIP guests celebrating Nigo’s display on a rooftop at the nearby Musee du Quai Branly, sipping champagne and Alain Ducasse cocktails.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about Paris Fashion Week 2023

More about Paris Fashion Week 2023

• Dior Official Website
• Kim Jones’ Profile
• Junya Watanabe’s Biography
• AMI’s Official Website
• Nigo’s Biography
• Kenzo Official Website
• Paris Fashion Week