Dior’s Kim Jones Celebrates 5 Years as Designer with a Gender-Fluid Paris Men’s Show

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In a gender-fluid Paris men’s show, Kim Jones, the British designer at Dior, marked his fifth anniversary with a spectacular event held at the historic courtyards of the Ecole Militaire. The Eiffel Tower stood as a magnificent backdrop to the show, while the sweltering Parisian heatwave had guests like Gwendoline Christie using their metallic invitations as makeshift fans. The runway, adorned with futuristic square plates, hinted at the transformative nature of the show.

As celebrities settled into their seats, the show commenced with a captivating twist that stirred the audience’s excitement. Square tops on the runway receded, revealing male models rising from the remaining square holes. This theatrical demonstration impressed even the usually composed Bernard Arnault, CEO of Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy, who reached for his phone to capture the moment.

Jones’ milestone was celebrated with a bold collection that beautifully merged traditionally feminine elements of Dior’s heritage with a contemporary men’s aesthetic. The showcase effectively captured the gender-fluid ethos embraced by Generation Z.

Highlights from the spring-summer collections presented during Friday’s show include:

DIOR’S SOFT SIDE

Jones emphasized Dior’s haute couture heritage, stating, “It’s a culture we have inherited from womenswear past and applied to menswear present.” The collection showcased styles that celebrated a softer approach to masculinity. Dior handbags dangled from male arms, leopard print skirt-shorts were boldly presented, and pink pastel tweed shorts offered a fresh interpretation of manhood.

The collection masterfully blended masculine and feminine elements, fusing the impeccable tailoring traditions of British menswear with luxurious couture fabrics, paying homage to Dior’s roots in womenswear. Neon accents adorned loafers and tennis shirts, while geometric Balkan motifs and a diverse array of bags in various shapes, colors, and textures added further intrigue.

Jones also paid tribute to his predecessors, incorporating a “collage of influences” in the collection’s textural techniques and silhouettes. Drawing inspiration from Yves Saint Laurent, Gianfranco Ferré, Marc Bohan, and even Monsieur Dior himself, Jones skillfully blended pop iconography with tradition. The collection transformed the iconic flower women designs into “hommes fleurs” or “flower men.” Renowned milliner Stephen Jones contributed with reimagined new wave beanies adorned with “ronghua,” exquisite velvet flowers of Chinese origin dating back to the Tang dynasty.

Jones’ men’s show at Dior made a bold statement, highlighting the fluidity and interconnectedness of gender in fashion. In his fifth-anniversary collection, he fearlessly confronted society’s evolving perceptions of manhood while pushing the boundaries and simultaneously reflecting them. For Jones, fashion is a dialogue that seamlessly connects the past, present, and future. Through his collections, he aims to encourage a broader and more inclusive view of gender roles.

JUNYA WATANABE’S PUNK: A BOLD FUSION

Renowned designer Junya Watanabe took center stage at Paris’ high fashion orbit, unveiling a fresh collection that paid visceral homage to the anarchic spirit of punk culture. Watanabe, a disciple of Rei Kawakubo, has often drawn inspiration from the Japanese philosophy of “Monozukuri,” which emphasizes creation and innovation.

The runway show prominently showcased punk aesthetics, celebrating the deconstruction and reconstruction of fashion. Disparate elements from different garments were meticulously cut up and restitched, resulting in audacious patchwork creations that pushed the boundaries of design.

Punk inspiration permeated the show, evident in the gravity-defying hairstyles reminiscent of Edward Scissorhands, paired perfectly with imposing black boots worn by the models. Watanabe masterfully captured the raw energy and DIY ethos of punk, crafting a narrative that fearlessly dismantled sartorial norms and reassembled them with a rebellious syntax.

The highlight of the show was an awe-inspiring array of restitched suit panels boldly transformed into armor-like garments. These fierce creations, reminiscent of an aggressive critique of corporate executives, bridged the gap between streetwear rebellion and a polished corporate veneer.

Through this dramatic exploration of Monozukuri with a punk focus, Watanabe solidified his status as a trailblazer, effortlessly blending tradition with a robust and disruptive ethos.

CELEBRITY ALLURE MEETS ’90s NOSTALGIA AT AMI

Alexandre Mattiussi of AMI set Paris Fashion Week ablaze, skillfully intertwining the narratives of fashion and celebrity. Presenting a simplified co-ed collection, Mattiussi returned to fashion fundamentals, merging sophisticated tailoring with unexpected touches of sequins.

The show began with the nonchalant stride of Vincent Cassel, paying homage to a more restrained era of fashion. The collection exuded ’90s nostalgia through tailored pieces in warm gray, chic dusty green, and smudged beige. While the relaxed silhouette of menswear and the sophistication of womenswear evoked a sense of nostalgia, Mattiussi injected audacity into the collection with sequined button-downs and slip skirts, a bold nod to contemporary glamour.

Though a few design choices missed the mark, such as overly high slits on apron skirts, the collection exuded a relaxed confidence, striking a balance between luxury, modernity, and French elegance. AMI’s essence, a return to the basics, was convincingly reflected in the minimalist yet luxurious showcase.

However, simplicity in design did not equate to a lack of star power. Celebrities like Manu Rios and Halle Bailey graced the front row, underscoring the symbiotic relationship between fashion and celebrity culture. The show exemplified the enduring truth that Paris Fashion Week is as much about the fashion as it is about the influential figures who wear it.

NIGO’S KENZO COLLECTION SHINES ON SEINE BRIDGE

Under the golden hour sun, the Kenzo show blossomed on a bridge overlooking the Seine. Adding to the pre-show glamour, Pharrell Williams arrived fashionably late, still basking in the success of his triumphant Louis Vuitton debut earlier in the week.

Since taking the helm at Kenzo in September 2021, designer Nigo has continued to revitalize the brand with a youthful spirit, departing from the preppy styles of previous showings. Known for merging American workwear with street style, Nigo infused the collection with his signature touch while honoring Kenzo’s print-heavy legacy.

The unisex collection subtly referenced preppy styles through school-inspired elements like oversized spectacles, hemmed suit lapels, and knee-high socks. However, audacious total look prints in bold reds and blues took center stage. Boxy men’s silhouettes made a statement with wide cropped pants and an abundance of denim, while playful details like oversized berets and gardening hats balanced the urban edge.

Deliberately loose-fitting suits paired with sneakers ensured the collection didn’t take itself too seriously. Soft beiges and pastels added a calming touch to linen suits, creating a subtle contrast against the sunlit Parisian backdrop. Nigo injected a pop of color with bright red knee-high socks, provocatively juxtaposed with an unstructured charcoal dress adorned with the Kenzo logo.

Although the collection maintained an element of elusiveness, signaling Nigo’s ongoing effort to strike a balance between his unique vision and Kenzo’s established reputation, it showcased a more confident stride, adding an exciting chapter to Kenzo’s sartorial journey.

VIP guests later gathered at the nearby Musee du Quai Branly, sipping champagne and enjoying Alain Ducasse cocktails to celebrate Nigo’s impressive display.

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• Dior Official Website: Dior
• Kim Jones on Instagram: Kim Jones
• Junya Watanabe Official Website: Junya Watanabe
• AMI Official Website: AMI
• Kenzo Official Website: Kenzo
• Nigo on Instagram: Nigo