A Ukrainian Railway Service Links the Capital to the Battle Zones

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In the intricate web of Ukraine’s extensive train system, the Kyiv-Kramatorsk railway line is unique, enveloped in a quiet gravity as its occupants contemplate the journey ahead.

Every morning around 7 a.m., travelers depart from the perceived sanctuary of Kyiv, moving eastward towards conflict zones where clashes between Ukrainian and Russian forces are commonplace, often involving indiscriminate missile attacks on civilian regions.

The passenger demographic on this line provides a snapshot of contemporary Ukrainian society. It comprises military personnel on brief leaves of absence, women visiting their partners who are engaged in combat, and local residents returning to inspect their homes in the Donetsk region.

Amidst this, conversation is sparse as passengers are preoccupied with their thoughts.

Marta Banakh, 19 years old, anxiously looks forward to the train’s upcoming brief halt at one of its nine intermittent stations en route to Kramatorsk. She steps off for a quick cigarette, nervously shifting her weight from one foot to another.

Unbeknownst to her family, Marta has traversed the length of the country from western Ukraine to visit her infantryman boyfriend, who has been on duty since the onset of Russia’s comprehensive invasion in February 2022.

“I constantly worry that each day might be his last, and we might be separated forever,” she notes, her hair flowing freely, adorned with a headband embedded with pearls.

This is the sole high-speed daytime service reaching Kramatorsk. Positioned just 30 kilometers (under 20 miles) from the active battle front, the city is vulnerable to Russian assaults. Close by, conflict continues unabated around the Russian-occupied city of Bakhmut for the second consecutive year.

War has become deeply ingrained in the everyday life of millions of Ukrainians, and the country’s far-reaching railway infrastructure remains functional despite ongoing hostilities. Overnight trains still offer passengers amenities like hot tea and freshly laundered bed linens. These trains also transport goods, humanitarian aid, and equipment.

The prominence of the Kyiv-Kramatorsk route accentuates the grim reality of the conflict. According to Ukrzaliznytsia, the national railway operator, approximately 126,000 individuals utilized this route during this year’s summer months. It ranks fourth in passenger volume among all intercity high-speed trains and boasts one of the highest occupancy rates—94%—of all trains in Ukraine.

This connection had been interrupted for a six-month duration in the early stages of the conflict following a catastrophic Russian missile attack on Kramatorsk’s train station, which resulted in 53 fatalities and 135 injuries.

Alla Makieieva, a 49-year-old frequent user of this route even prior to the conflict, ponders the differences between then and now while traveling back from a business trip in Kyiv to her hometown of Dobropillia, situated near Kramatorsk.

“The demeanor of people has shifted; there is a somber tone now,” she observes. “In Kyiv, there is a contrasting atmosphere; people appear to smile more.”

Despite also being a target for Russian missile and drone strikes, Kyiv benefits from robust air defense systems, giving its inhabitants a semblance of security.

As morning sunlight gives way to noon, it bathes the spacious train compartments in a warm glow. Most of the overhead racks are occupied by military gear. Sporadically, an attendant interrupts the quiet, offering refreshments like coffee, tea, and light snacks. Additional items like pasta bolognese or cappuccinos can also be ordered.

The high-speed journey from Kyiv to Kramatorsk comes at a cost of roughly $14. In close to seven hours, passengers traverse approximately 700 kilometers (around 400 miles).

Oleksandr Kyrylenko, 26, sits contemplatively in the train’s lounge with coffee, watching the rapidly changing scenery outside.

This is his inaugural trip to the frontline, a journey he makes with surprising ease considering he had been managing a warehouse in Poland before Russia’s invasion of Ukraine.

“No fear is present; I simply desire for the war to conclude,” he states, dressed in military attire.

Making the decision was not difficult for him; he asserts that it eased his conscience. “Human resources are becoming scarce; action is imperative,” he adds.

Upon arrival at the terminal, the platform swiftly fills with people. Some stride purposefully with military backpacks, while others engage in long-awaited, emotional reunions.

Twenty-year-old Sofiia Sidorchuk holds her boyfriend tightly; he has been enlisted since the beginning of the full-scale invasion. She explains her decision to come from the northwestern Rivne region to Kramatorsk: “We missed each other.”

“It’s love,” her partner, in military uniform, concurs.

He has been granted a few days’ respite to spend time with his loved one, after which he will be redeployed for an impending assault.

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Contributed by Volodymyr Yurchuk.

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For continued coverage of the war in Ukraine, visit: AP’s coverage

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about Ukrainian Railway and War

More about Ukrainian Railway and War

• Ukraine-Russia Conflict Overview
• Ukrainian Railway System
• Kyiv-Kramatorsk Route Statistics
• Ukrzaliznytsia, the National Railway Operator
• Effects of War on Ukrainian Infrastructure
• Passenger Experiences on Ukrainian Trains
• Military Presence in Eastern Ukraine
• Missile Attacks on Ukrainian Soil